The Royal Oak, Wetton

This was our lunchtime stopping point on our recent autumn walk and very pleasant it was too. A reliable indicator of a good pub is how difficult it is to get in and that was certainly true on a glorious Sunday in early October. However, because we'd had the foresight to book a table, we were very quickly sat down in the back bar enjoying pints of Hartington IPA and something maltier from Worthington's. The back bar also offered some acoustic respite from a group of folk mourners who were churning out some tunes completely inappropriate to a lovely autumn day. The food arrived promptly and we had attentive, though not fussy, service throughout. All in all, a lovely country pub to stop off at - but book first!

The Amber Hotel, Somercotes/Oakerthorpe

Despite counting 19 cars in the very extensive car park, there were only about a dozen folk in the bar. They did, though, all turn to look at us as we walked in. Waiting for God(ot) came to mind. The short bar held two ales - Spitfire and one from The St Austell Brewery 'Proper Job'. Both were fine. The whole place had the air of faded grandeur (much like the regulars) and to the far side of the bar was an area which had once delighted to the tinkle of a piano and the slow waltz of ladies in elegant gowns. Now it's full of tables and only accommodates fried food and bingo. An experience, though not one worth repeating.

The Horse & Jockey, Wessington

The strange green exterior illumination should not put you off visiting this delightful village pub. Inside, we found a proper open fire, a pleasant open arrangement of seating, an attentive barman and a small selection of good beers. I had a refreshing pint of a golden ale, "Glory Daze" from the Bumpmill Brewery. Although it was 'Pie & a Pint' night (£8.95), it was quiet and it got quieter. There were two blokes sat by themselves, hoping desperately that someone they knew would come in. It probably needs a quiz night to get some life back in...

The Duke of York, Elton

The Duke of York fits nicely in a bracket with the Barley Mow at Kirk Ireton - pubs run by families with little attention to the fads of the modern world. It doesn't open till 8.30 - there's no need when there's only three regulars. It only offered one beer (Marston's Burton Bitter) which was perfectly palatable without being very flavoursome. There's also an eclectic mixture of other stuff, displayed above the bar in bottles and cans. The open fire was welcoming and the fantastic fireplace quite imposing. The landlady was kindly, although slightly hard of hearing. Worth a visit if you're passing at an appropriate hour.

The Druid Inn, Birchover

Birchover is a place we've been several times previously but always to visit the woodenly atmospheric Red Lion. The Druid had been through some changes of management and we were responding to information that it had, recently, been turned back into a pub that does food (rather than a restaurant with a small bar attached). Fortunately that did turn out to be the case and we found a selection (albeit small) of beers, from Kelham Island, Buxton Brewery and one other. All beers were on the sharp side of 'bitter' and were slightly disappointing, in terms of richness of flavour. The surroundings were conducive, apparently refurbished, but appearing to be traditional in tone. The welcome was warm and the young man behind the bar was very ready with information. A good addition to the Birchover repertoire.

The Bull's Head, Monyash

The Bull's Head is a pub, teetering on that cusp between pub and restaurant. Thankfully, it hasn't (yet) tilted over into devoting itself entirely to meals, as have so many others, and retains an essentially pub-like interior. The welcome was warm and the one young woman serving on did an excellent job of keeping everybody happy. There was a selection of beers to be had and all reports were favourable. There is, of course, nothing wrong with pubs providing fodder for the tired walker and the food we ordered arrived promptly. A range of standard pub classics did not disappoint. If you're in or passing through Monyash, it's well worth a stop.

The Five Lamps, Derby

This was easily my favourite and the one pub I'd go back to without hesitation, if I was in the area (or even if I wasn't!). Their website has details of all that is on offer there but it's an impressive interior and, apparently carries a range of 14 cask ales. We tried to eponymous Five Lamps ale and it was fine. However, by that stage in the evening, we all were on halves and this pub would warrant an evening devoted to itself and the full range of its offerings. Go there.